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Building Notes & Photos Finding Parts:
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Current Progress
October 7, 2006. When you don't have a building and are building your boat in a carport, you have to work around the weather. Think this is the last varnishing until the interior and engine systems are ready and installed. Then I can rent storage for the finishing coats. The beauty of using natural varnish is the flexibility that it offers. Once this cures out I can apply the 3-4 layers of finish coats next summer after a good, heavy buffing and sanding. Will be able to place hardware, make patterns for windshield glass, and all the other things that winter is good for now that the exterior woodworking is done.
October 3, 2006. Bit the bullet and stripped off lower bow portion of bottom paint to re-locate boot-stripe joint. Once boat was turned over, the boot-stripe obviously wasn't level- climbed up at the front cockpit. Since relocated so is horizontal throughout the boat length.
Made the final payment on the cutwater and transom bands-- a huge expense-- but I won't have a boat without a cutwater. We will see what it looks like- but is custom by a pro so should be OK.
Want to get one more coat of varnish on deck, then that's it until the interior and motor are installed and boat is ready to assembly. Time to spend the winter getting all the smaller pieces and the interior done- and yes, the engine, seats, mechanicals, and interior woodwork installed. Am going to spent an inordinate amount of time on the interior-- it needs to look good to. No "unfinished" home-made boat without ceiling boards at this point. Luckily I have restored enough to know what a traditional interior looks like. Still glad I left the divider in between 2 front cockpits. Hope that stays.
Sep 22, 2006. Varnishing. Mid-way through varnishing. Probably will get a couple of coats more before winter, then a focus on making this big coffee table a boat. All the mechanicals need to be installed and routed, the inner seats and upholstery done, fitting, staining, and varnishing the ceiling boards (a fancy name for the planking on the interior sides), and of course- the engine. Will be fitting in the hatch and hinges this weekend, then drilling out the holes for the lifting rings, gas tank filler tube, and the flag-staff to allow sealing of the holes and varnishing over to further seal. Really want to get enough coats of varnish on the instrument panel to fit in the steering mechanism to get started on running the steering cable and hookup to rudder- Then engine mounts, then engine. Have to decide on how to go on the rub rail - the reproduction Chris Craft style would be $900 for this boat, and the hollow-half-round from West Marine only $300. Given the costs of the engine, chrome, and all the other pieces, I should go with the flow, but am also slightly concerned about how either would lay in the severe curve in the sheer back to the transom. In hindsight, I might have wished this boat had less "barrel in its back." Will probably remove a section from Olderthanus to see how the real rub rail would work in that situation. Waiting for word on the cutwater and transom bands. Am interest in a "test fit," if only to see the effect.
Engine is still in a 1000 pieces at the rebuilders- no hurry and am cultivating a friendship with them. Three hundred miles from me is a completely rebuilt 350 + transmission for 40% of what I will have in this engine when done, so am regretting my choice a little. But-- at least everything should still fit.
Aug 3, 2006. Boat gets new name-- "Unfair. " I have always been partial to naming my boats with tricky boat names- Olderthanus- because she is, Almost Gray- because she was, and now, for this new boat, Unfair. Building on a Minnesota Triple Cockpit tradition of single-word boat names, the name Unfair just trips my trigger. Of course, it's called Unfair because it is-- looking down virtually any angle of any part of the boat in a close-up there is something or another that just isn't exactly right-- very, very close-- but not exactly on the button. Any boat-person will get the drift. To anyone else-- it might be "Unfair" because I have it and they don't, or some other nonsense. It has that "Triple Cockpit Panache", at least in the name. Lastly, it fits on the barrel-back transom very easily and looks good in script fonts.
July 31, 2006. Deck Finishing & Cutwater fitting- Putting the first of several coats of varnish over newly stained & routed deck. Cut in deck seams, decided on a stain scheme, and am installing first 6-8 coats of varnish. Boat won't be done until next year, but this will get enough finish to protect wood and let me continue work on the rest. Will probably fit-out deck and install chrome pieces, etc while the inside is getting fitted out and the engine done and installed. Once the mechanicals ready over the winter, then can remove everything and put on final varnish coats then. Want to get 6 coats or so, then caulk seams, let cure, then a couple more coats before winter. As usual, boat looks better in photos than in person, but is shaping up rather well. It is certainly a pretty good sized boat, and there is quite a bit of acreage when varnishing.
Cutwater will be coming from Cutwaters.com- mailed in the pattern for cutwater and transom bands. One of those things that you can do without, but the boat would be missing something without it. One of the pricier individual pieces, but that's custom work for you. Like in the glen-l website-- you can save substantial amounts of money to build your own boat-- but they're still not cheap.
May 24, 2006. Decking Over describes installing the plywood deck over the deck framing- including the newly constructed hatch assembly. Won't see inside engine hole again until finish layer of veneer is installed, stained, and first-coat of varnish applied. Also test fit prop shaft, installed lifting ring mounting plates and shafts, cut cockpit holes, mounted dash,
April 20, 2006. Interior all primed and painted. Deck framing complete and deck stringers cut, notched, and glued in. Went with the two split-cockpit front and single cockpit in back with double engine-hatches. Seems to be enough room and seems nice and stable. This week's progress is to veneer dash, stain and mount dash so I can install measure for and install steering wheel and cable. Odd angles, but should work. Gas tank positioned and support tray built.
March 8, 2006. Windshield finally handled- beautiful Century windshield brackets finally located and at chromer. Significantly cheaper than Chris Craft ones would be -- thanks to someone's inadvertent "Buy if Now" choice. Also located 6 original Chris Craft step pads what will work extremely well-- better than those "Perko" ones that someone disguised so well on eBay. Four were already chromed so only extra expense is the last two. Slowly getting over the engine expense-- there really aren't any other significant ones left-- upholstery is mostly materials and I have those, trailer is already done, most if not all wood is bought, I think all hardware is basically bought except for a steering cable. Located a pair of Century Resorter seat frames for very cheap-- if they fit I can get started on getting the upholstery ready. All set until the next surprise.
March 6, 2006. Ouch! Learned a lesson-- before you go thinking about what engine to use, price the parts ahead of time. The Graymarine rebuilding parts used for this engine are about twice the cost of what would be in a small block Chevy. Parts and labor for everything now estimated at $3660. On the other hand, that is getting new rods, pistons, rockers, etc, etc. Certainly increases the commitment on both the boat and the engine. Already have $200 in gaskets, $250 in carbs, $118 starter and generator, $85 in water pump impeller. Certainly hope the Velvet Drive is OK. Engine had sat longer than I thought-- and after this I will have a warranted, essentially new engine. Probably $1000 more than I had expected at the top end-- and that's essentially the parts difference. Like always-- the money in building the boat isn't in the wood-- it's in the engine, upholstery, and the other parts. No wonder there aren't more Monte Carlos built...
February 28, 2006. Winter is inside work here in the frozen plains. Graymarine out at rebuilders. Starter and generator rebuilt. Entire carb setup rebuilt, painted, and ready to go. Fuel pump rebuilt. Deck framing completed and stringers being installed. Sheer faired. Still uncertain about back 5' of boat and how that will merge deck to sheer.
Sewed boat cover to keep dust off, and animals out etc. Made extra large and deep-- will recut and reinforce stress points once boat done.
Dash cut and installed. Another $650 of 1/8" mahogany deck veneer received from Canada-- this time in 12" widths for laying out deck pattern. All hardware except cutwater and windshield brackets ready to go- rechromed and ready to install next year. Instrument set bought- beauties. SW "Wings" rat-rod reproductions with electric senders.
Scrapped vintage steering box, steering shaft, etc for Teleflex Safe-T QC steering box and cable steering. Using Model "T" wood rimmed steering wheel & cable. Will order cable when measurable.
Scrapped plans for re-using gas tank from Higgins- opted for plastic tank after reading dozens of safety articles about weld cracking problems with aluminum and stainless tanks. Waaay cheaper. Only 19 gallon, but that will just have to do. Luckily found one tank- a Moeller at Overton's- with a center fuel filler mount to allow lining up of flag holder, fuel filler, and lifting ring at the boat center- all others seem to have a side-mount tank. .
Ordered and received new prop shaft from Glen-L- a deal when machining are considered. Installed shaft-log, shaft-strut (with new strut bearing), strut support.
January 11, 2006. Engine Notes: Here on the frozen plains, there is no boatbuilding for those of us who work outside. However, it is engine time. The Graymarine Fireball V-8 (an AMC 327) is disassembled and at the rebuilder. Looks like most of everything is going to be not only usable, but is in better condition than I expected. Should be all ready for April for fitting. I hope to install it once, and work around for the rest of the build, but that may be optimistic.
Have been collecting, buying, re-chroming, and arranging deck layout over the last 6 months or so. Too soon to know for sure, but you can read "parts list and costs" to date if interested.
November 9, 2005. Flipping her over! Almost 2nd year anniversary of plan receipts and have finally reached this milestone. I would call it about "halfway." Turnover was relatively easy, but it took my favorite welding shop and 4-5 people to make everything a two hour exercise. Our method was to 1) balance the boat from an overhead hoist with a fabric strap. 2) Lower the boat back down and cinch the strap all the way over on one side. 3) Affix a second strap next to the first, cinched at the opposite side. 4) Lift the main strap while releasing the 2nd strap. 5) As the boat lifts from one side, let roll onto padded cart. 6. Continue to lift and release. 7) once boat is perpendicular to ground, continue release main strap and tension 2nd strap while pushing carts under boat. 8) Continue until boat upright.
Loved shape once over, but now realize just how much there still is to do. Have lots of cleanup of excess 5200 (remember, I'm the guy using caulk instead of epoxy). Will enjoy placing the floor and configuring the cockpits. Relieved to see that I had faired the sheer just enough to still have 1/2 inch or so to get a properly angled surface from the deck framing. Looks "fairer" than I would have expected when sighting down sheer. Still is a little awkward to tell if fair where the sides transition to the barrelback. It looked pretty odd when upside down but looks OK now. Final fairing of sheer will tell for sure. Not all that pretty inside, but will have plenty to do over the winter cleaning up the inside and planning the cockpit and engine layout.
This is a big boat, and anyone considering one should know that. I also have a big, heavy 1952 19' Chris Craft Holiday Utility and this is distinctly larger. Harder to launch, to trailer, to store. For whatever reason, it ended up about 25' 6". The the extra 5 feet over a Riviera takes up way more material than you would suspect, however. It is, however, exactly what I was looking for. Quite a difference from my only other project, a Squirt!.
October 21, 2005. Installing Rudder, Strut, and boring prop shaft hole prior to flipping over for the first, and last time. Have been neglectful about posting things, but bottom painted, sides stained and sealed with 6 coats Eppifanes- enough to seal out water, but have to wait until boat is over and more work done on deck, etc to go further. Good move to dump the black. Will be interested to see how the shape looks once right-side up and I can finish fairing the sheer to see just how fair everything is. After boring hole rudder, I have 2.25" thickness of hull at the keel. Had to add a 3.4" backing piece inside to accommodate the rudder assembly, but worked out exactly right. Once the shaft hole is drilled, I will remove all the underwater gear and take her to the welding shop to turn over.
September 12. Gave up on the black sides. Took 40 grit and sanded down until color is gone and back to raw wood. Resanded down to 80 grit and restained with Chris Craft red. Had to go pretty dark due to the black caulk used for the black sided plans, but looks OK. The more varnish, the darker everything gets so will be fine.
Needed a time out- bought new house in Ozarks and had to move the fleet south. Olderthanus, our 23' Chris Craft Express Cruiser needed a new engine and some chine planking work so things have been delayed. Worth it to have all 5 boats, plus the pontoon that came with the house on the water dock at once when dust settles.
May 13, 2005. Current photo at right. Details in "Outer Hull" photogallery at left.
May 1, 2005. Trailer bought and picked up.
April 30, 2005. Boat Registered with County Recorder as "New Boat".
Feb 25th, 2005. Almost time to get started again. Started filling screw holes on bottom and final sanding on bow bottom planking. Still planning on black stain sides and "hard racing bronze" bottom. Not sure about boot stripe as yet.
Another breakthrough-- have acquired enough dark green alligator-print leather via eBay to complete the entire interior-- perhaps even enough to make cushions and a top-plank strip on the inner covering boards. Eight complete hides, all printed in alligator, all UV treated and ready for boat use-- all for $400. It certainly solves the problem of "what color" on the inside.
Dec 16, 2004. Whoppee! New Donor Boat Acquired. Scored the exact parts boat of my dreams. All bets are off now with the acquisition of engine and other parts for the drive train of Stolen Moments. A quick trip to Holland Michigan and $450 later I am now the proud owner of a 23' Lyman with a complete drive train, powered by a Graymarine 188hp 327 V-8. This engine should have plenty of power, and has a cool low-profile twin carb set-up that will ensure the engine will be correct height. From steering column and instrument panel on back to the rudder, this boat is the pattern boat for the mechanicals of the glen-l. As a 23' utility it is close enough in size that the engine location is far enough away from the transom for the third cockpit, and is in the correct location for the Monte Carlo's engine placement. Came with a fun dash, although re-instrumented and controls that will surely work, steering mechanisms are all the correct lengths, etc, and the strut, prop, velvet drive (1:1 of course) should all be a correct drop in. I can even measure exact placement and locations of all critical mechanical components and transfer to the glen-l. Lots of work, and things to keep me busy over the winter.
November 3. Closed up for winter. The final bottom layer is installed (plywood up to last 10', then 1/4" planking. Have all materials for side planking and just have to wait for warmer weather. Tests of black stain result in a firm decision to use a black hull, copper bronze bottom, and perhaps some two-toning on deck. Trailer ordered, and expect to turn over by May.
Winter is for hardware, engine, and other mechanicals restoration. Have two steering columns to choose from, several rudders, and have been buying and selling several different sets of hardware until I see what I really want. Engine is complete and ready to restore, but now having problems with manifolds-- the ones I have are "missing" a fitting in each side that will be impossible to find. May have to fabricate or locate another donor motor.
July 14th- 1st bottom and sides on. Going to take a little break and wait for the fun to start again-- tired of cleaning up every night. First layer done, 10 sheets of plywood. Probably wasted unnecessarily 1/2 sheet, but it is just a big boat. Need to reorder as I underestimated. Starting to look like a boat, but the extreme tumblehome looks funny from every angle. Hopefully when righted it will look in perspective. Finally at the place where I would have been if I had bought the 1/2 finished one on eBay in November. Saved a trip to Florida and lots of mileage and grief, but would have been cheaper by far.
July 8th- Fairing done, battens installed, and first layer of planking going on as noted in photogallery links at left. Battens were harder than expected-- hard to get them straight-- and more twist towards bow than I expected. It is critical area too, as the planking is dependent on them as you move forward. Mine are different than most in Glen-Ls photos, my battens on the bottom are are curved and end at the stem-- like the chine. Others show them parallel. That noted, they are equally spaced and have a "fair curve". Harder to locate the screw holes, but OK.
The side ones even more difficult (easy to install, hard to keep level.) Measuring didn't get them to line up and eyeballing them not much better. Would have liked to have done that again. Doesn't matter too much, though as structurally they are fine and aren't off that much.
Planking easier than I expected, at least on the bottom. Was able to use 2 length full sheets, then 2 18", then switched to 6" wide. Found it is easier to cut close for length, then plane to once installed that to try to cut off excess once applied.
One last thing that I am going to finish doing, then ask about later is the orientation of the plywood. Cut into strips lengthwise on the plywood they are relatively stiff- but appear to be stronger. Cut widthwise, they appear to be weaker, but are MUCH more flexible-- an asset at the bow-side, and in the tumblehome at the stern. Glen-L doesn't mention anywhere about worrying about the plywood orientation-- and being plywood, laminations run both ways anyway. At least in my first layer, I took the flexible route and used width-cut strips to make the curves much more smooth and easier to plank. Will decide later about the 2nd lamination.
June 16, 2004- Doesn't look like much progress, but lots of work done. All the battens are cut and glued, but the boat needs to be faired first prior to installation. Keel installed and faired, starboard side chine and sheer faired, port sheer and chine waiting to be faired. Took a little longer and added a 4th lamination to the chine just to be sure I had enough to plane away.
Ordered 16 sheets of 1/4th inch plywood today. Maybe I should have built a smaller boat? Once all the battens and fairing are ready, it is time for the planking to begin-- then it will look really like a boat. Time to do another "plans review" to make sure I don't leave something out.
Considering installing and test-fitting rudder assembly and location of shaft-log as it would be easier than after planking.
May 17, 2004- Gluing up chines and sheer laminations. Overall there are 2 laminations for each chine and 3 for each sheer. Takes more clamps than I have to ensure each is clamped up, so am doing one per 24 hours. After the lengthy fitting and cutting of the first lamination, the remainder are much easier as there is more to clamp to. I suppose this is the hardest part (but I haven't started the planking yet) and certainly sets the stage for the shape of the boat. The sheer especially really outlines the boat.
Preparing for keel installation in between-- marking out the cutouts and trying to remember to cut the limbers. Settled on the keel of southern yellow pine -- it is just too nice and too available. I suppose I should have put the keel in before the sheer and chines, but as the frames are bolted to the engine stringers, nothing was going anywhere and it didn't seem to make a difference.
Went shopping yesterday and located the 1/4th marine plywood for the planking. Quantity discount of 20% and free delivery scored the deal. Also bought a specialty "low-tension" Swedish band saw blade especially for resawing and some sample stock for trying my hand at making my own 1/4" veneer for the bottom. Located some 1/8th inch in Canada for the sides and deck, but depending on the experiment, may try to "make my own" with the bandsaw and planer.
Will be doing lots of sawing and scarfing with all the battens that need to be installed. On the other hand, once that is done, it's time to start planking. (After fairing, that is). Enough work for another month. Still need to get the rest of the "fleet" on the lake...
November, 2003. Bought plans. Know I was crazy to start from scratch-- should a have bought the 1/2 done one on eBay...
Photogalleries
- Planking- July 8
- Chines, Sheer, Keel, & Battens- June 16
- Assembling Frames- May 6
- Parts is Parts-- the one thing I learned from other projects is that individual parts can price you out of the market-- it is easiest to locate a donor boat of approximately the correct size to use as a donor. This one was a "Freebee" for the price of picking it up-- with a "bonus engine" that fits another boat to boot. Much nicer than stuff salvaged from houses-- the bronze pieces appear to be "good as new" and have no corrosion-- as do the galvanized gas tank and steering and shift linkage shafts.
- Donor boat located-- 1959 Higgins 19' Sport Speedster for steering and drive train-